Just trying to get a feel for interest on parts. You guys can check my members profile not sure if everythings there, but i have a stage 2 360cc with reflashed ecu , sc is by ngm
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FS: GI: Solidandres tib part out
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help choosing a new clutch
ok, i have a stage 1 sniper with all the supporting mods, in fact i maybe ugrading to stage 2. im looking for a good clutch that can handle that and that is durable enough for a daily driver and the occasional day at the track. i've been looking around and i was just wondering if anyone has any good suggestions?
-thanks
-thanks
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DIY: P0171 & P0174 Running too lean Bank 1 & 2 fix
Ok Guys,
Shortly after installing my DC Sport headers and CAI. My car started giving me a CEL for a too lean condition. P0171 & P0174 to be exact. After trying everything everything that people have suggested. I have figured out the issue. It is NOT the MAF! its NOT the fuel pump, spark plugs, vaccume leak, ect....
It is the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor, and its really cheap to fix.
Hyundai's engineers never cease to amaze me on these cars. They decided to place the IAT sensor as far away from freash air coming into the engine as they could. The problem with the stock location is that the sensor gets heat soaked by the intake manifold. When I was running my scanner software, I would read air temps as high as 170F. Ha, the temp outside was like 45F or below when I was doing my tests. That is a huge difference. And it only added to the problem when you install a CAI and you start pulling cooler air from outside of the hot engine bay.
While I was running my tests on the car I was logging several parameters in order to isolate the real problem. Here is what I was reading before relocating the IAT and adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Wideband Air/Fuel was reading 16-17% and so lean under acceleration that it was out of the range of my meter.
Long term fuel trims was maxed out at +25%
Short term fuel trims was averaging +8%
Intake air temp was reading 150-170F (warm engine)
All 4 O2 sensors was reading correctly as well.
To rule out a MAF problem I logged the engine air flow rate with RPM and the graphs mirrored one another.
After relocation of the Sensor and installation of a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am now reading. -5% on my short term fuel trims and my long term trims are currently at +14% and dropping. The IAT sensor is usually reading about 30*F above ambient air temp outside and my wideband Air/Fuel meter is keeping a consistand rich/lean arount 14.7 untill I accelerate and then it goes to a rich condition around 12.5-13%
NOTE: Adding a adjustable fuel pressure regulator is optional. I installed one for 2 reasons. First I needed a fuel pressure gauge. in order to make sure I was getting adequate fuel pressure. Second I set the fuel pressure to 50 psi to speed up the process of bringing down my long term fuel trims. The computer will compensate for the higher fuel pressure and reduce the injector pulse to cut back on the amount of fuel.
So, we need to relocate the IAT sensor to a better location. A location so it can read fresh air and not get heat soaked.
Here is what you will need:
14x1.5mm oil pan plug
Rubber grommet
Drill and stepper bit
Wire (16g I think, doesnt really matter though)
Either solder or crimp connectors
First you are going to need to remove the IAT from the upper intake manifold. I have it pointed out in the pic below.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Here is what the sensor looks like after you remove it.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Now that you have removed the sensor from the car. You have a huge gaping hole in the intake manifold that you need to plug. I used a 14x1.5mm OIL pan plug, but any 14x1.5 bolt should work.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Now you will need to remove the part of your CAI that is between the throttle body and MAF sensor. NOTE: YES! it is very important that you remove the pipe for the next step. You have to drill a hole in it and you really do not want metal shavings to get inside your engine.
Take your stepper bit
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
and drill a hole that is just big enough to get your rubber grommet into.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
NOTE: You will have to take your sensor to the hardware store (ie..Lowes, Home Depot, ACE) To get the right size grommet. I think a 5/8 inch will work, but I cant remember. I just got an assortment pack. You want to be able to thread the sensor in the grommet and it not come out of the intake.
After drilling the hole in the tube. Make sure you clean the inside of the tube to remove any metal that may still be in there.
Now press in your grommet and thread in your IAT sensor. After you reinstall the tube, you will need to extend the wires in order for the plug to reach the new sensor location. If your handy with a soldering iron, this is your time so shine. If not, then grab your crimpers and butt splices and crimp your wires. DO NOT USE WIRE NUTS! They are not reliable in automotive applications.
Extend your wires and check your connections. Make sure your wires are not where they can get pinched or burned from anything hot. Also, make sure its clear of the throttle body cables, ect. I suggest using a little split loom on your wires to make them look OEM.
I will try to get some more pics of my install as soon as I can.
Shortly after installing my DC Sport headers and CAI. My car started giving me a CEL for a too lean condition. P0171 & P0174 to be exact. After trying everything everything that people have suggested. I have figured out the issue. It is NOT the MAF! its NOT the fuel pump, spark plugs, vaccume leak, ect....
It is the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor, and its really cheap to fix.
Hyundai's engineers never cease to amaze me on these cars. They decided to place the IAT sensor as far away from freash air coming into the engine as they could. The problem with the stock location is that the sensor gets heat soaked by the intake manifold. When I was running my scanner software, I would read air temps as high as 170F. Ha, the temp outside was like 45F or below when I was doing my tests. That is a huge difference. And it only added to the problem when you install a CAI and you start pulling cooler air from outside of the hot engine bay.
While I was running my tests on the car I was logging several parameters in order to isolate the real problem. Here is what I was reading before relocating the IAT and adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Wideband Air/Fuel was reading 16-17% and so lean under acceleration that it was out of the range of my meter.
Long term fuel trims was maxed out at +25%
Short term fuel trims was averaging +8%
Intake air temp was reading 150-170F (warm engine)
All 4 O2 sensors was reading correctly as well.
To rule out a MAF problem I logged the engine air flow rate with RPM and the graphs mirrored one another.
After relocation of the Sensor and installation of a adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I am now reading. -5% on my short term fuel trims and my long term trims are currently at +14% and dropping. The IAT sensor is usually reading about 30*F above ambient air temp outside and my wideband Air/Fuel meter is keeping a consistand rich/lean arount 14.7 untill I accelerate and then it goes to a rich condition around 12.5-13%
NOTE: Adding a adjustable fuel pressure regulator is optional. I installed one for 2 reasons. First I needed a fuel pressure gauge. in order to make sure I was getting adequate fuel pressure. Second I set the fuel pressure to 50 psi to speed up the process of bringing down my long term fuel trims. The computer will compensate for the higher fuel pressure and reduce the injector pulse to cut back on the amount of fuel.
So, we need to relocate the IAT sensor to a better location. A location so it can read fresh air and not get heat soaked.
Here is what you will need:
14x1.5mm oil pan plug
Rubber grommet
Drill and stepper bit
Wire (16g I think, doesnt really matter though)
Either solder or crimp connectors
First you are going to need to remove the IAT from the upper intake manifold. I have it pointed out in the pic below.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Here is what the sensor looks like after you remove it.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Now that you have removed the sensor from the car. You have a huge gaping hole in the intake manifold that you need to plug. I used a 14x1.5mm OIL pan plug, but any 14x1.5 bolt should work.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Now you will need to remove the part of your CAI that is between the throttle body and MAF sensor. NOTE: YES! it is very important that you remove the pipe for the next step. You have to drill a hole in it and you really do not want metal shavings to get inside your engine.
Take your stepper bit
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
and drill a hole that is just big enough to get your rubber grommet into.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
NOTE: You will have to take your sensor to the hardware store (ie..Lowes, Home Depot, ACE) To get the right size grommet. I think a 5/8 inch will work, but I cant remember. I just got an assortment pack. You want to be able to thread the sensor in the grommet and it not come out of the intake.
After drilling the hole in the tube. Make sure you clean the inside of the tube to remove any metal that may still be in there.
Now press in your grommet and thread in your IAT sensor. After you reinstall the tube, you will need to extend the wires in order for the plug to reach the new sensor location. If your handy with a soldering iron, this is your time so shine. If not, then grab your crimpers and butt splices and crimp your wires. DO NOT USE WIRE NUTS! They are not reliable in automotive applications.
Extend your wires and check your connections. Make sure your wires are not where they can get pinched or burned from anything hot. Also, make sure its clear of the throttle body cables, ect. I suggest using a little split loom on your wires to make them look OEM.
I will try to get some more pics of my install as soon as I can.
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FS: xcloudiix's 2005 Tiburon GT 6-speed
Thanks for looking everyone! This is my 2005 Hyundai Tiburon GT.
This has been my most reliable vehicle for the past 4 years.
This past Thursday I was leaving work and went through about 4-5 inches of water due to a flash flood we were having and since it has been having some issues. I'm not a mechanic but I do know my way around a car. It sounds as if the car is misfiring. It will crank and it will idle, but it sounds awfully rough. The headlight bulbs were blown after the incident, although the LED halos still work.
I need a reliable car/truck and am looking at all my options before making a decision. I will consider parting it out. I will consider selling it as a whole, and I will consider an outright trade.
The car has 114,000 miles.
The car has a flood title due to the original owner sucking water through the cold air intake and hydrolocking the motor. It was under a factory warranty at the time and had a new motor put in (ironic that nearly the same thing happened to me.)
Cosmetically the car is in good condition. It's got a few scratches here and there, the body kit has a few cracks in it, but other than the issue with the water it was in perfect mechanical condition.
Specifics:
Brand new clutch and flywheel (less than 3,000 miles on them)
Aftermarket headers
Cold air intake
Custom paint job
Front bumper body kit
White 17" rims with all good tires
Carbon fiber hood
Painted white interior panels
4-point harness with harness bar for driver and passenger seats
Aftermarket dual exhaust
LED Halos
Aftermarket smoked tail lights
I do have several other extra parts, such as a stock 17"rim and tire, other miscellaneous rims and tires for the car, extra headlights, from an 03 I believe. Extra halos and wirings.
****I am currently at work and will be uploading pictures as soon as I get home!****
Until then, please see my alternate post gauging interest on a potential part out.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/sho...351&highlight=
I am open to all offers and trades and am looking for a reliable car/truck. Please keep it within reason. Aside from the water damage, this car does have a lot of time and money put into it. I am asking $2800. Thank you!
This has been my most reliable vehicle for the past 4 years.
This past Thursday I was leaving work and went through about 4-5 inches of water due to a flash flood we were having and since it has been having some issues. I'm not a mechanic but I do know my way around a car. It sounds as if the car is misfiring. It will crank and it will idle, but it sounds awfully rough. The headlight bulbs were blown after the incident, although the LED halos still work.
I need a reliable car/truck and am looking at all my options before making a decision. I will consider parting it out. I will consider selling it as a whole, and I will consider an outright trade.
The car has 114,000 miles.
The car has a flood title due to the original owner sucking water through the cold air intake and hydrolocking the motor. It was under a factory warranty at the time and had a new motor put in (ironic that nearly the same thing happened to me.)
Cosmetically the car is in good condition. It's got a few scratches here and there, the body kit has a few cracks in it, but other than the issue with the water it was in perfect mechanical condition.
Specifics:
Brand new clutch and flywheel (less than 3,000 miles on them)
Aftermarket headers
Cold air intake
Custom paint job
Front bumper body kit
White 17" rims with all good tires
Carbon fiber hood
Painted white interior panels
4-point harness with harness bar for driver and passenger seats
Aftermarket dual exhaust
LED Halos
Aftermarket smoked tail lights
I do have several other extra parts, such as a stock 17"rim and tire, other miscellaneous rims and tires for the car, extra headlights, from an 03 I believe. Extra halos and wirings.
****I am currently at work and will be uploading pictures as soon as I get home!****
Until then, please see my alternate post gauging interest on a potential part out.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/sho...351&highlight=
I am open to all offers and trades and am looking for a reliable car/truck. Please keep it within reason. Aside from the water damage, this car does have a lot of time and money put into it. I am asking $2800. Thank you!
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WTB: V6 Exhaust system
i am looking around to see if anyone is actually selling their exhaust system for a v6, thanks.
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anyone bought a CAI with no sensor issues?
Building slowly 03 v6 tib and starting with basic cai. I don't want a CEL so I'm curious which ones wouldn't throw a code. Anyone been successful with this? I browsed for a similar thread, please link me if I missed it. Price range about 150 - 200. Next is headers.
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Can I put a 2008 control panel in my 2004?
I would like to have the cooler style of the newer radio,ac,gauges and stuff. Is it possible and where? :sasr:
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Rattles everywhere!
I have searched threads and found some helpful info. But nothing specific to my situation. My back glass (I think) rattles under acceleration. It's not rasp because no aftermarket exhaust besides mufflers.
Also are there any other common loose spots to check out to fix some of these annoyances
Also are there any other common loose spots to check out to fix some of these annoyances
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Illum Control Switch 2k7
I have one question. I have a doubt I bought the Illum Control Switch http://sfrusa.3dcartstores.com/Illum...tch_p_138.html but for 2k7 (FL2), my car is for the year 2006.
But the switch does not operate, nor appears light in Gauge Cluster.
Will I have to change some wires place?
But the switch does not operate, nor appears light in Gauge Cluster.
Will I have to change some wires place?
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6th Gear Missing? HELP!!!
Hey all. Newbie here, sorry about replying to a closed thread. My 06 Tubby just lost 6th gear. It's like it was there one minute and gone the next. All other gears shift fine, smooth. But its like someone swapped in a 5 speed while I was city driving, and I get on the highway, and no 6th gear. I just don't get it. I am going to mess with it a little today, doing the things I have already done; i.e. check cables, clips, bushings, bleed slave cylinder, etc. At my wits end here. I can't afford a mechanic right now, and it makes me very nervous to drive it with 5 gears because of the potential of making it worse. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
UPDATE: Thanks for the quick response from member tctdh11, I think I know what the problem is. It seems the 6th gear synchro develops a burr on it that doesn't allow it to slide on the shaft, if I understand correctly. Long story short, time to start sourcing a replacement trans as I am not at all confident in tearing into this one. Ugh.
UPDATE: Thanks for the quick response from member tctdh11, I think I know what the problem is. It seems the 6th gear synchro develops a burr on it that doesn't allow it to slide on the shaft, if I understand correctly. Long story short, time to start sourcing a replacement trans as I am not at all confident in tearing into this one. Ugh.
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Custom Turbo Help :)
Hello everyone! I have a 2.7 V6 Tiburon. My Goal HP is 250-300WHP. Ive been researching and researching and researching about Turbochargers and how to choose the correct Compressor and A/R Turbine Housing for the application i am running. So Far i have gathered information on how much lbs of air a minute the stock engine takes in which is 17Lbs/Min (170/10=17lbs.) 170=Stock HP and there is 1lb of air to 10HP. So know knowing that and knowing the pressure ratio (8psi+14.7/14.7=1.54PR) 8 PSI being the boost i want to run in my application, 14.7 Atmospheric Pressure. You also want to be 65% or more on the map, so on a compressor map for the Turbonetics T04E .60 Compressor Trim this Compressor will be good for my application correct? Now for the turbine housing i want a slow boost response and higher end power so a bigger A/R Housing will be suitable like .85 A/R Trim correct? I also am concerned about choosing the right turbine wheel. Should that be small for slower boost response? I dont understand when it tells me to pick a turbine wheel what wheel to pick? Here is my custom turbo on turbonetics website! Thanks! Any Info is appreciated!
Custom Turbo
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/store/...product_id=572
Compressor Map For T04E .60 Housing
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/...les/T04E60.gif
Links should work now :)
Custom Turbo
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/store/...product_id=572
Compressor Map For T04E .60 Housing
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/...les/T04E60.gif
Links should work now :)
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red AE
are they illegal?
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A journey with Alice - 03 Tiburon GT progression
My wife decided to name my car Alice, and it's stuck ever since. haha
I figured I should start a progression thread, since I am starting mods on my car, and it's a lot easier to maintain a thread than it is to make one and try to remember where you put all the pictures!
When I purchased my car, she already had the following mods:
Her interior was in immaculate condition, only one minor tear in the driver seat. And here she sits:
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
The previous owner had an aftermarket subwoofer in there, but pulled it out. He left the wire and amp behind, poorly run through the car instead of properly run through the firewall. So I pulled that out. I replaced the OEM radio with a Pioneer radio, since the previous owner had cut the wiring harness for the radio.... No pictures of the pioneer set up yet, but here's the stock.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Shortly after I got her, I ordered the Tuscani badges for the front and back, since he already had the badges on the wheels... But not the front/back. :wtf:
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
To make proper use of the custom exhaust and headers, I slapped a home-made SRI in there. Not only does she sound EVEN better, but I noticed a rather large increase in the torque.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Upgrades to come soon:
I figured I should start a progression thread, since I am starting mods on my car, and it's a lot easier to maintain a thread than it is to make one and try to remember where you put all the pictures!
When I purchased my car, she already had the following mods:
- Upgraded lightweight single Flywheel
- Stage 2 clutch
- Custom low-tone exhaust and upgraded headers
- New Master and Slave Cylinder
- Carbon Fiber accents in the interior
- Carbon fiber roof
Her interior was in immaculate condition, only one minor tear in the driver seat. And here she sits:
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
The previous owner had an aftermarket subwoofer in there, but pulled it out. He left the wire and amp behind, poorly run through the car instead of properly run through the firewall. So I pulled that out. I replaced the OEM radio with a Pioneer radio, since the previous owner had cut the wiring harness for the radio.... No pictures of the pioneer set up yet, but here's the stock.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Shortly after I got her, I ordered the Tuscani badges for the front and back, since he already had the badges on the wheels... But not the front/back. :wtf:
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
To make proper use of the custom exhaust and headers, I slapped a home-made SRI in there. Not only does she sound EVEN better, but I noticed a rather large increase in the torque.
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Upgrades to come soon:
- Installing the all new NGK plugs and wires I have. Taking it to a shop to do that because I don't want to mess anything up when taking off the upper intake manifold. The wires are all BLUE! :)
- Paint the wheels either a gunmetal gray, or black. I'm not digging the white rims.
- New headlights from SRF that have angel eyes prebuilt into them.
- New taillights.
- Strut bar
- And many more as time progresses, and I can think of them...
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Help me please :( - 2nd to 3rd hard shifting
Hi! Newbie here, and a female, so pretty much lost. Please help... I have a 2003 Tiburon automatic 2.7L .. salvage/reconstructed title. Got it with 61k miles now has 83k.
In the summer it did this really hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd (the whole car just jerks / jumps forward *violently* ) but my mechanic fixed it by tightening a bolt in one of the motor mounts.
It's winter time and now it's doing it again. Tried cleaning the MAF, didn't help.
Airbag light is on, not sure if this relates.
Check engine light is NOT on.
In Jan 2012, a douche bag poured a gallon of water inside the gas tank (nearly empty). Had to tow the car to a shop to get the tank cleaned. Shifting problem started after that.
Car runs fine and shifts fine, it's just scary and annoying. When I have people in the car, I accelerate slowly so that it doesn't do it. When I release the gas pedal slowly, it kinda does this little jump too.
I don't think I ever changed the transmission fluid, or the person before me did. Haven't checked the condition of it either.
I'm thinking about just using lucas oil transmission fix. Has anyone tried?
Any help is appreciated thanks.
In the summer it did this really hard shifting from 2nd to 3rd (the whole car just jerks / jumps forward *violently* ) but my mechanic fixed it by tightening a bolt in one of the motor mounts.
It's winter time and now it's doing it again. Tried cleaning the MAF, didn't help.
Airbag light is on, not sure if this relates.
Check engine light is NOT on.
In Jan 2012, a douche bag poured a gallon of water inside the gas tank (nearly empty). Had to tow the car to a shop to get the tank cleaned. Shifting problem started after that.
Car runs fine and shifts fine, it's just scary and annoying. When I have people in the car, I accelerate slowly so that it doesn't do it. When I release the gas pedal slowly, it kinda does this little jump too.
I don't think I ever changed the transmission fluid, or the person before me did. Haven't checked the condition of it either.
I'm thinking about just using lucas oil transmission fix. Has anyone tried?
Any help is appreciated thanks.
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Requested Support Ticket for an Old Order.
Hey DD,
I haven't gotten your response for so long. I submitted support ticket, emailed you directly, messaged you here.
Order 7810.
No response from support ticket.
Please respond Paul.
Thanks.
Also I want to order something else as well, so if we can solve this issue all in one. that would be great.
Apologize for posting on the Forum, this should have been taken care of Long ago.
I haven't gotten your response for so long. I submitted support ticket, emailed you directly, messaged you here.
Order 7810.
No response from support ticket.
Please respond Paul.
Thanks.
Also I want to order something else as well, so if we can solve this issue all in one. that would be great.
Apologize for posting on the Forum, this should have been taken care of Long ago.
↧
Just sold my Tiburon
Just sold my 2006 Hyundai Tiburon that I bought new back in 2006. She will be missed traded her in she only had 26000 miles on her and not a dig on her.
Just some of the MODS she had
Window Film Tint 20%
Light Glow 7-Color Underbody Kit
Hyundai Tiburon Billet Short Antenna (Black)
Logo Ignition Bezel Cover
HALO H7 Xenon HID Conversion Kit LOW BEAMS (10000K)
HALO 9006 Xenon HID Conversion Kit FOGS(10000K)
Stainless tips exhaust
Short Shifter 6speed with Knob
ARK Rear Sway Bar 22mm
ARK DT-P Coilover System
ARK Front Strut Brace Bar
ARK R-Spec header V6/6-2-1
ARK Ti N-II V.2 Dual Exhaust System
Python 991 remote start, alarm and keyless entry
Someone is going to get a great car.
Just some of the MODS she had
Window Film Tint 20%
Light Glow 7-Color Underbody Kit
Hyundai Tiburon Billet Short Antenna (Black)
Logo Ignition Bezel Cover
HALO H7 Xenon HID Conversion Kit LOW BEAMS (10000K)
HALO 9006 Xenon HID Conversion Kit FOGS(10000K)
Stainless tips exhaust
Short Shifter 6speed with Knob
ARK Rear Sway Bar 22mm
ARK DT-P Coilover System
ARK Front Strut Brace Bar
ARK R-Spec header V6/6-2-1
ARK Ti N-II V.2 Dual Exhaust System
Python 991 remote start, alarm and keyless entry
Someone is going to get a great car.
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WTB: DC sport headers
Looking for a good set with little to no rust. Pm price shipped to 54217
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FS: 2 12" Kickers in box w/ 1000 watt Kicker AMP attached
It's been awhile since I have been on the forums but I am here to try and sell these subs that I have no use for anymore :) Need my trunk space for family type stuff in the new WRX! Anyways...here is a pic of them and I am not shipping these obviously.
Pick up only!
Asking $350
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.![]()
Pick up only!
Asking $350
Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
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Best subs around 200
Just wondering what the best subs I can get for 200 would be. I've been looking at the mtx terminator dual 12s. I mainly listen to rap btw and I want my car to be shaking :likeabossgifanimate ! -thanks
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Help! Engine knock/tick
I have a 03 i4
They other day I was on the highway going about 80 mph for about 10 miles and when I got off I started hearing a weird ticking. It only happens between about 2k and 4k rmps and is the worst in neutral and first gear. When I'm giving it full throttle after 3k rmps it goes away but when I let off and let the rmps drop down to 2k it does it. It's a loud tick (kind of a knock) but the engine idles fine and drives fine with absolutly nothing weird going on except the noise. And when I give a little gas to maintain speed it makes a tiny noise.
It's coming from the block or maybe the head. And when the engine is cold it doesn't make the noise only when it gets to running temperature. If it sits for hours outside in the cold I could drive it for 5-7 mins until it happens but when it's warmed up a lot it doesn't go away at all till its completely cooled off.
I think I let the oil get too low and that's what caused it. i was do for an oil change soon and after I heard it I checked my oil and I was 2 quarts low so I'm pretty worried because I never let it get that low and I'm pretty sure I fried something like a piston bearing or piston ring.
I'm just wondering if anybody has some good advice on whats wrong and if I need to I can take a video. I'll get it looked at by a mechanic when I have time this week but i really wanna save money on this becuase Iv been saving for bbs and almost have enough and this is gonna suck if this uses all the money I have saved.
Oh and Iv been driving it like this because i have too for the last 3 days and it hasn't gotten worse at all just depends on the temperature of the engine and mainly the oil.
They other day I was on the highway going about 80 mph for about 10 miles and when I got off I started hearing a weird ticking. It only happens between about 2k and 4k rmps and is the worst in neutral and first gear. When I'm giving it full throttle after 3k rmps it goes away but when I let off and let the rmps drop down to 2k it does it. It's a loud tick (kind of a knock) but the engine idles fine and drives fine with absolutly nothing weird going on except the noise. And when I give a little gas to maintain speed it makes a tiny noise.
It's coming from the block or maybe the head. And when the engine is cold it doesn't make the noise only when it gets to running temperature. If it sits for hours outside in the cold I could drive it for 5-7 mins until it happens but when it's warmed up a lot it doesn't go away at all till its completely cooled off.
I think I let the oil get too low and that's what caused it. i was do for an oil change soon and after I heard it I checked my oil and I was 2 quarts low so I'm pretty worried because I never let it get that low and I'm pretty sure I fried something like a piston bearing or piston ring.
I'm just wondering if anybody has some good advice on whats wrong and if I need to I can take a video. I'll get it looked at by a mechanic when I have time this week but i really wanna save money on this becuase Iv been saving for bbs and almost have enough and this is gonna suck if this uses all the money I have saved.
Oh and Iv been driving it like this because i have too for the last 3 days and it hasn't gotten worse at all just depends on the temperature of the engine and mainly the oil.
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