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Dead alternator or something else

June 24, 2014, 4:09 pm
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This is my girlfriend's car. 03 V6 Tiburon.

Go to start it this morning, absolutely nothing. go to jump it and as it's "charging" the horn starts to go off, gradually gaining more noise as it charges. at the same time the wipers start going. they wouldn't stop if I hit the steering wheel or played with the wiper switch.

pull the jumpers, everything kills again. no juice. doesn't click or anything. pull the cables off the terminal, clean them up etc. rejump. it's alive. no horn blaring, no wipers screaming. pull the jumpers off, car dies after 15 seconds. first thought is alternator of course. repeat everything, it does it again. but as I look at the battery, there's that 120amp "slow blow" fuse or whatever it's called hanging off the positive. the fuse is completely fried, a gap in-between. need a bridge to cross the fuse.

so will putting a new one of those fuses in there fix her car? or is it the alternator?

I searched and everything and didn't found much. just looking for what this fuse is all about. so I'm sorry if this is a common thread.
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FS: Aem uego wideband, smt-6 tuner, usdm oem multi guages

June 24, 2014, 4:22 pm
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Got a few items for sale....

Aem wideband (includes o2 sensor wire, mounting pod, and guage)- $120
SMART 6 Tuner ( includes CD and all components as new) - $150
USDM OEM multiguages ( used but great condition guages only, i can try to pull some wiring but i dont know if they have a seperate clip to disconnect)- $75

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Dead Alternator or something else

June 24, 2014, 4:23 pm
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This is my girlfriend's car. 03 V6 Tiburon.

Go to start it this morning, absolutely nothing. go to jump it and as it's "charging" the horn starts to go off, gradually gaining more noise as it charges. at the same time the wipers start going. they wouldn't stop if I hit the steering wheel or played with the wiper switch.

pull the jumpers, everything kills again. no juice. doesn't click or anything. pull the cables off the terminal, clean them up etc. rejump. it's alive. no horn blaring, no wipers screaming. pull the jumpers off, car dies after 15 seconds. first thought is alternator of course. repeat everything, it does it again. but as I look at the battery, there's that 120amp "slow blow" fuse or whatever it's called hanging off the positive. the fuse is completely fried, a gap in-between. need a bridge to cross the fuse.

so will putting a new one of those fuses in there fix her car? or is it the alternator?

I searched and everything and didn't find much. just looking for what this fuse is all about. so I'm sorry if this is a common thread.
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Help, why do my rims look like this?

June 24, 2014, 6:47 pm
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What is it and how do I make them look clean again? I'm pretty sure they are stock and are not steel cause magnets don't stick, it's a 2003 hyundai tiburon gtv6

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Bumper shifted?

June 24, 2014, 7:53 pm
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My front bumper seems outta line... I have no idea why. It has a small gap between the fender on the passenger side. and at the bottom of the headlight it has a small gap. Also, the hood isn't flush with the bumper. Is this normal? How can I go about fixing it? It bothers me every time I walk in front of my car. I'd post pictures but it's dark outside.
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2000 Tib Exhaust

June 24, 2014, 9:44 pm
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alright, so I recently bought my new RD2 Tib, (2000) and for it to be certified/safetied im going to need to install a new flex pipe, as well as have my muffler put on, im thinking whether or not to just go OEM flex pipe for the car, OR maybe install headers that will include the flex pipe, I was told current one was leaking.

Do you think I'd be better off going with a nice set of headers or just having someone cut out the current flex pipe and install a new OEM one, plus install muffler, I was thinking if I go for performance, which i'd prefer id get a set, however im new to car exhaust modifications and have no idea what all I need from engine to muffler. I've looked at a few things on ebay, would this set here have everything I need? all piping from engine right to the back?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-97-01-RD...666133&vxp=mtr

I don't really want to have anything shipped through UPS. when I ordered a new tire for my car I ended up paying $70 at the door for import fees it was ridiculous.. anyone have any ideas?

I also don't know of any mods that were done to this car, the previous owner I bought it from seemed to have known nothing either, so i'm just kind of winging it..
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Different Multi Gauge Units?

June 25, 2014, 12:50 am
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I've been looking into buying a multi-gauge unit from seoulfulracing but I just noticed theirs is different from other models I've seen. Like instead of MPG, their gauge reads lambda/100km and kg*m instead of x10 lb ft on the normal multi gauge. Can someone explain this to me? Is it just another way of saying the same thing or are they gauging different things?
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RockAuto.com has added a wide variety of part kits to our catalog!

June 25, 2014, 8:50 am
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Some of the part kits available through RockAuto.com include:

*KYB Shock Absorber & Mount Kits and Strut & Mount Kits in the “Suspension” category
*Power Stop Rotor & Brake Pad Kits in the “Brake/Wheel Hub” category
*Four Seasons A/C Compressor & Component Kits in the “Heat & Air Conditioning” category
*Bundle (Standard Motor Products) Tune-Up Kits in the “Ignition” category

There are many advantages of buying a kit rather than individual parts:

*Kits conveniently include all of the components you need allowing you to order what you need with a single click
*Kit components are designed to work together to meet or exceed OE performance
*Kits include all of the parts that are needed to perform a more complete service, ensuring greater success now and preventing problems in the future that could have been avoided

Check RockAuto.com to see if there is a kit available to complete your next project!
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please

June 25, 2014, 12:22 pm
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Hi-Scan Pro / CASCADE Emulator Available for Download

June 25, 2014, 1:57 pm
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I've packaged for download a copy of CASCADE v0.9.3 emulation software for Hi-Scan Pro, including the following ROM packs & documentation:

ASIAN PACK1.bin
ASIAN PACK2.bin
EUROPEAN PACK1.bin
EUROPEAN PACK2.bin
HYUNDAI KIA.bin
KOREAN.bin
USA AUSTRALIA.bin

https://db.tt/uPRh6w2e (22.6MB zip via DropBox)









...and purchase a compatible K/L USB Diagnostic adapter with FTDI chipset, such as the following:



Limitation as stated in the manual:

"No automatic pin switching. The original device’s diagnostic interface is able to connect to ECUs with the K line on pins other than 7 on the OBD connector. The low-price USB interfaces used with CASCADE do not have that capability, so it may be required to physically modify the USB interface in order to be able to connect to such ECUs." ~ as Hyundai uses non-standard lines for the ABS, BCU, etc.

Solution:
http://www.obd2cables.com/products/o...n-out-box.html



This package should allow nearly full control & diagnostics of the ECU, BCU & other parameters, including the ability to clear non ECU codes, actuate modules/test sensors, etc.

Enjoy.
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Unknown Problem with V6

June 25, 2014, 1:59 pm
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Hey guys, I recently started noticing my V6 has been acting up, and im stuck as to what it could be.

Here some important background that will probably assist.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/sho....php?p=4704545

Ok so since then,

I have put on an NGM supercharger. Currently just running stage 0. Still on stock injectors and fuel pump (i believe)
I also have,

headers
dual catless exhaust
tuned ecu ( idle rpm set to 1100, rev limiter at 7000, don't know if anything else
gude cams
cai


My car has always run a little rich, don't know if that matters.


Anyways the problem,

My car seems to have a couple of issures, the biggest being throttle repsonse, lagging, and half power.

Half the time my car will feel like its running under full power, the other times it feels like its literally producing at half its possible output.

Example,
Even without the supercharger, my friend and i have raced before. (both v6 tiburons 6 speed)
He is bone stock, i had all my mods, and then the supercharger later.

now 70% of the time I will walk him all day, but then the rest of the time he walks me, with my car feeling like its running at half the hp.

These results remain the same even with the supercharger on.

Also, there are sometimes where i will try and start from a stop, and no matter how much on the throttle i am the car will just lag and not to anything, almost like its not getting any fuel or air at all. This will also happen when driving, for instance if im at 35 mph and i try and go to third and step on the gas, the car will just "jump" and pull oddly. like on/off/on/off. But if i put the clutch in and then release and step on it again it will act normal.

Now I have just gone an done a compression check. ( was on a slightly cold motor since i was dumb and forgot to let it run, but it still ran for over 4 mins.)

The numbers i got back were

Cyl PSI

1 120/125/125/125

3 120/120/122/122

5 125/125/135/125

2 135/135/135/132

4 127/125/125/125

6 130/135/135/125


Also to add. Recently went and got my codes read (again)

Got p0103, p0113, and P1505


P1505 Idle air control system at adaptive limit
The p0103 is maf high input, p0113 is intake temp high input

Now usually I would look to these, but when I first got the car it used to run 13 codes,
the three I got most recently have always came up, I have put new maf, tps, and iac on and they have not gone away, but I am also hesistant to trust these because my ca didnt use to do all the hesitation and half power BS, even with these codes.

Now this is the latest I have done, as I have some other projects im doing. My main question is why is my engine running well half the time, and then the other half of the time it seems like it cant get its act together.


I will have my laptop with me for the rest of the day so i can respond as quickly as possible. Thanks again guys, im sure whatever this problem is, you all will help me find it!
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Rack & Pinion Issues... I Think?

June 25, 2014, 2:00 pm
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Hey all,

I believe that I am having an issue with my rack and pinion on my 04 Tib.
Some issues I am having
1. Decent amount of play in my steering wheel
2. When I accelerate from a light steering feels all loose and not very responsive.
3. Feels as if I am having to constantly over steer.
4. At high speeds on the highway, I feel as if I have a lot less control of my car. As if I am driving like a 1995 Oldsmobile or something, very sloppy feeling.

Last winter I did hit black ice and ran the Tib into a ditch and had to be towed out, wondering if that could have been what caused this. I did have my alignment done, and also a tire balance thinking that might fix the problem. This feeling in the steering has made my day to day driving of my TIb very reluctant I feel like I don't trust the car at high speeds and cornering anymore.

I guess my question is do you think that this is my issue? if it is do any of you know what it would cost to have a rack & pinion system replaced?

and if you don't think this is my issue do you have any ideas as to what might be causing this sloppy feeling?

Sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much info as I can, thanks in advance for the read and any help.
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FS: NGM NA reflashed ecu 4 bit

June 25, 2014, 3:00 pm
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Up for sale is a 4 bit NGM NA reflashed ecu. Its tuned for i/h/e stage 4 uim and cams.
It has a raised rev limiter to 7300, advanced ignition timing and earlier cooling fan start up.
This ecu will work with any 03-08 v6 tiburon manual or automatic.
I ran this ecu without cams and it worked good. Helped my et in the 1/4 mile.

Price is 350 SHIPPED in the lower 48 states.

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Washer Nozzle replacement

June 25, 2014, 4:49 pm
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I ordered off of ebay a pair of washer nozzles with LED's I'm thinking of wiring them into the Directional so the blink when the directional is active. Is anybody familiar with the six hole headlamp socket to suggest which connections go to the directional lights?
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Summit Point

June 25, 2014, 6:06 pm
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Anyone going to FATT Day at Summit Point on Saturday?
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WTB: 05 F/L foglight aiming screw brackets

June 25, 2014, 6:14 pm
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Apparently the mounting brackets are available separately from the dealer because I got them, but the 90 degree x2 angled bracket that connects to the bumper for the aiming adjust screw are only available with the whole foglight housing?!

Anyway. I need these 2 aiming screw brackets if anyone would happen to have them.
(bottom bracket in pic)
Thanks.

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Installing headers.

June 25, 2014, 7:26 pm
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What a pain in the butt... we started at 2 and just got the headers on at 10... and if it wasnt for the DIY on this site we still would be stuck. also found out my oil pan is rusted out so gotta go buy a new one tomorrow.

So what all do you use for oil? She has 120000 on her.
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Coilover issues

June 25, 2014, 8:02 pm
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Okay so today I installed my race land coil overs. The back ones are sitting perfect with no rubbing or anything. The front ones on the other hand are a pain.
The wheels I have are 18x9 +38 MB weapons and I'm running 10mm spacers all around.

My front right wheel keeps rubbing the bumper bracket and fender really bad. My front right wheel also sticks out more than the drivers wheel, making it rub more? Any suggestions?
Also, I feel when I raise the car a few inches it drops more when I start to drive. Like really really drops when I drive. Almost all the way down to the tire.
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Need a blower control fix

June 25, 2014, 8:14 pm
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I've already glued one switch, and replaced it twice now the wires are melting. I thought this was from when someone stole my headunit, after searching it seems it's a common problem. But, I can't find the solution? I really would like to get the AC working again but I know just replacing that switch isn't going to fix it.

Can anyone offer advice or point me to the thread with a fix?
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ForumFest 2014

June 26, 2014, 1:25 am
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Hello Ladies and Gents
It just about that time for ForumFest to kick so I'll post up the information here just for anyone who didn't hear about it or forgot about it.

Date: Saturday 06/28/2014

Time: 12:00pm - 7:00pm

Location: Pacific Raceways
31001 144th Ave SE, Kent, Washington 98042

Cost:
General Entry: $10 Per Person (12 & Under FREE)
General Parking (Outside the gates): FREE
VIP Parking Inside: $10 - While space lasts
Drag Racing: $40
Lead/Follow: $75

Tentative Schedule *subject to change*

Vendor/Sponsor Setup: 7:30am - 10:00am
Car Show Roll In: 8:00am - 11:00am
Gates Open: 9am
Lead/Follow Racing: 10am - 2:00pm
Car Show: 12:00pm - 7:00pm
Drag Racing: 2:00pm - 7:00pm
Car Show & Drag Racing Awards: 6:30 - 7:00pm

See you all there!
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