I was finishing up on my LED conversions the other day, and I noticed that there was a bulb in the rear lamps that wasn't turning on or illuminated at all for that matter. It's located on the outside of the tail light on the far side of the rear brake lamps.
↧
What's this bulb for?
↧
WTB: v6 maf
Just like the title states, I need a MAF for a 2.7L v6.
I also need a driver's side foglight and matching shroud too.
Help a brother out!!
I also need a driver's side foglight and matching shroud too.
Help a brother out!!
↧
↧
Ported and Powdered LIM Group buy!
Ok guys, we've been in talks with Neztec Motorsports about offering some porting services in group buy form. We love to coat, they love to port, and we both do a great job at our craft. So here's what we'd like: 5 folks ready to roll on getting a ported and coated lower manifold. Once we have 5 guys in for this, total pricing on the manifold will be discounted by $110 bucks for a single stage coating of your choice color and $125 if going with a two stage color. Total cost excluding shipping for a single stage coating with port work will be $309 - normally $419.95, Total for a two stage coating is $339.00 - normally $464.95. There is an included core charge of 49.95 that will be refunded if your lower is returned once you receive your JGT/Neztec manifold. If you're interested, please message me and attach your name to this thread. I'll be listing this elsewhere as well and once we have our first 5, we'll start rocking on the manifolds for you guys.
Single stage coatings (examples): Standard colors with no clear coat or candy coating applied to include, gloss colors, flat colors, wrinkle colors, and more
Two stage coatings (examples): More intense colors requiring a clear coat or candy coat such as metallics, chromes, candies, anodized appearing colors, and more.
Turn around time? Neztec and JGT both have lower manifolds in stock. The manifold will be ported by hand but we will strive to have them out within 2-4 weeks of the order and will be completed in the order in which they are paid for.
JGT's powder work:
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Neztec's Porting:
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
Single stage coatings (examples): Standard colors with no clear coat or candy coating applied to include, gloss colors, flat colors, wrinkle colors, and more
Two stage coatings (examples): More intense colors requiring a clear coat or candy coat such as metallics, chromes, candies, anodized appearing colors, and more.
Turn around time? Neztec and JGT both have lower manifolds in stock. The manifold will be ported by hand but we will strive to have them out within 2-4 weeks of the order and will be completed in the order in which they are paid for.
JGT's powder work:
Neztec's Porting:
↧
WTB: 05/06 front left 02 sensor harness pigtail
my 02 harness got to close to my header and melted if you have an 05/06 that u are prting out i need the front left 02 harness.. lmk
↧
FS: few leftover parts
Selling a ebay cold air kit that I used on my 2007 beta. no filter $15 with kn filter $35
silver inner door grabs $10
magnecore plug wires, red, 8.5mm $25
new 2.5" resonator with 4" body. $25
pre 2007 mid pipe with cat , used for 600 miles. needed if you run a megan header on a 07-08 beta. $40
black leather door inserts $10
black cloth door inserts $10
random gas doors all with bad paint. $8 a piece.
front floor mats $25
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
silver inner door grabs $10
magnecore plug wires, red, 8.5mm $25
new 2.5" resonator with 4" body. $25
pre 2007 mid pipe with cat , used for 600 miles. needed if you run a megan header on a 07-08 beta. $40
black leather door inserts $10
black cloth door inserts $10
random gas doors all with bad paint. $8 a piece.
front floor mats $25
↧
↧
FS: 2 Custom airbrushed tuscani emblems (used)
2 Custom (FFF) brushed silver/carbon fiber - look
CUSTOM TUSCANI EMBLEMS
just need 3M tape. and a good wax/polish.
shipped $75 OBO (for both)
CUSTOM TUSCANI EMBLEMS
just need 3M tape. and a good wax/polish.
shipped $75 OBO (for both)
↧
cracked sniper manifold core?
I finished my sniper install 2 days ago and had it running great at stage 0. Today I connected the icebox and thats when problems started. While I was bleeding the air out of the system, the engine started bogging down and white smoke began to come out of the exhaust. I could smell it was burning coolant so I turned the car off and check the front 3 spark plugs. They were wet with coolant also. So i removed the coolant hoses from the manifold, turn the car on, and put my palms on both connectors and could feel suction. Im sure that the coolant core is cracked inside.... what can I do? Is this something I can get repaired?
↧
Can Anyone Help Me Identify This Sensor???
I want to replace this sensor but i do not what its called, can anyone help me out? I would really appreciate it. Thanks. It is located on top of the transmission. It is a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon SE 2.7
↧
__** 2014 July - Best Picture of the Month - Submissions Thread **__
** 2014 July - Best Picture of the Month - Submissions **
Theme:Tibby in Motion
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Submission Rules:
[1] Post only a picture of the Tiburon (2003 - 2008 model years).
[2] You may submit only one picture. If multiple pictures are posted, only the first picture will be kept and the rest will be deleted.
[3] Before submitting your picture, follow the requirements and make sure you provide all the required information.
** Failure to follow the proper format will result in your submission being deleted. **
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This thread will close on Sunday, July 13th at 10:00PM, Pacific Standard time. Voting will begin on Monday, July 14th.
This thread is for Submissions Only.
Please do not make conversational posts.
Please do not make conversational posts.
↧
↧
__** 2014 July - COTM - Best Daily-Driver Tiburon - Submissions **__
** 2014 July - COTM - Best Daily Driven Tiburon - Submissions **
*Your Tiburon must be your primary vehicle being used to drive to work, school, etc.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Submission Rules:
[1] All vehicle submissions must be made by the vehicle owner. Nominations made by anyone that is not the vehicle owner will be deleted.
[2] Before submitting your nomination, follow the requirements and make sure you belong in the correct category. All modifications, pictures, and formatting are subject to review.
[3] For information on the number of pictures required and what the mandatory pictures must look like, please refer to the links below.
[4] The following info about your ride is required:
1. Year and Trim level of your Tiburon
2. List of all modifications
3. Three mandatory pictures - front, side, & rear.
4. (Optional) Up to 7 more pictures of the car.
**Car of the Month Submission & Formatting Rules**
**Failure to follow the proper format will result in your submission being deleted.**
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------**Failure to follow the proper format will result in your submission being deleted.**
This thread will close on Sunday, July 13th at 10PM, Pacific Standard time. Voting will begin on Monday, July 14th.
This thread is for Submissions Only.
Please do not make conversational posts.
Please do not make conversational posts.
↧
Need some opinions on what to do
Hey guys...So my driver side skirt is messed up. I originally thought it was the clips, so I went to the stealership and bought new ones...Well turns out the actual plastic tabs that hold the clips were broke. I tried to plastic weld them back on, but they ended up not holding. I didn't have any plastic rods, I just melted them on and didn't figure it would hold anyway. Some of the new clips wouldn't stay in the square holes either, some were a little bent up...I am not sure if the car got hit or what, but it sticks out towards the front and even if I push it on, it still isn't flush with the door? What can I do here?
The passenger side I noticed that the bottom of the door is starting to rust out. I had noticed a small rust spot on the outside that has started to bubble a bit, but nothing very big. I got to thinking about the body line that goes up the door just a tad...I was thinking about rhino lining it black...That would prevent the door from rusting as well as strengthen it up and cover the bad spot. Also, when I get a different side skirt, then that would prevent me from having to pay to get it painted. Thoughts?
The passenger side I noticed that the bottom of the door is starting to rust out. I had noticed a small rust spot on the outside that has started to bubble a bit, but nothing very big. I got to thinking about the body line that goes up the door just a tad...I was thinking about rhino lining it black...That would prevent the door from rusting as well as strengthen it up and cover the bad spot. Also, when I get a different side skirt, then that would prevent me from having to pay to get it painted. Thoughts?
↧
Back from the dead, a little help please!
Hey everyone, I was hoping i could reach out to the community to see if I can get my problem solved. Anyways maybe you guys can give me a little insight. My tib has been sitting for a couple years and i recently switched my sniper pulley to a 2.8 from the 3.4 and the crank pulley to a 7.5. Also put in injectors i want to say 310's but to be honest i bought them off a member a few yrs back and cant remember. Also put in a stage 4 reflash that i bought off a member years ago.
So upon starting it will crank all day long but not starting. Injector wires have 12 volts at them, but they arent spraying. Plugs are bone dry. Theres fuel at the rail. What would you think could cause this.. Im thinking the ecu must not be set for these injectors. I guess what im wondering is what my best solution (cost effective) would be using the parts i already paid for.
Thanks!
So upon starting it will crank all day long but not starting. Injector wires have 12 volts at them, but they arent spraying. Plugs are bone dry. Theres fuel at the rail. What would you think could cause this.. Im thinking the ecu must not be set for these injectors. I guess what im wondering is what my best solution (cost effective) would be using the parts i already paid for.
Thanks!
↧
Help with alignment specs
Can someone check my alignment specs. I had the car aligned at town fair tire and after the alignment there is a slight pull to the right. I've had what I feel to be alignment issues in the past with this car though. The car hasn't had a pull for a few years but I haven't had it aligned in two years. So I'm unsure if the tires have worn improperly and as I drive with the correct specs the tires will start to wear correctly. Should I just wait for a few weeks to see if there is a change before I bring it back? Also I remember that hyundai redesigned the front strut mounts to add caster I'm thinking about checking into this as well.
↧
↧
Caliper Guide Pins
So for a few months sometimes when I stop I feel almost like a popping in the steering wheel and from the front left of the car. I know that the sway bar endlink can cause a popping it they are worn. I checked and all is good with those but I just happened to grab my caliper and I'm able to shake the caliper back and for while its bolted to the car. I checked to make sure the bolts were tight and they are. So I'm assuming the guide pins are worn out. My question is, is this a part that I should go hyundai brand with or will aftermarket be fine.
↧
05 Tib GS Fog lights
Hey all I'm new to the newtiburon forums and i've looked around quite a bit but i cannot seem to find where anyone ordered fog lights for tibbys that didnt come with them factory made. Right now i have the plastic covering where the fog lights would go. I was wondering if anyone could tell me where you got yours and if I need to replace the whole plastic piece or would just need the fog lights and the mount they come with? any help would be great!
↧
WTB: 03 gt sway bars
Like the title says I'm looking for some 03 gt sway bars.
Anyone?
Anyone?
↧
DIY: Steel braided clutch hose
Background:
Why am I doing this? After a while when you get to know your car you notice things. I noticed my clutch always had random engagement. BUT this was close enough to the same point so it never really bothered me. More recently, I noticed my foot going to the floor more and more. I checked my brake fluid and saw it was fine; master and slave cylinders are less half a year old, so I moved on to the next wear and tear component, which is the rubber line. Over time, these lines expand more and more when pressure is put through it leading to the symptoms I’m experiencing.
Decided to do a little research on newtib, and came across a thread discussing braided clutch lines for our cars. Found out the 350z/G35 lines fit and then began looking online for a line. After about 15 minutes I found out they were close enough to fit, and thought to myself “why not, wont hurt, ill return it if anything”.
Post where line is discussed, note that the HEL line they used isn't sold anymore. Contacted seller via ebay and no response even to this day.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=217625
Asked my buddy who has a 370 who he suggests for z parts and he suggested z1motorsports. They have the line for $30 and about $10 in shipping to Orlando, FL. They’re located in Georgia so use that as a reference point to try and guess your shipping costs. They also do offer local pickup so if you’re local you can get away with $30 plus taxes.
Link to line:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2206
![]()
Tools need:
• Shop towels
• Brake fluid
• Flash light
• 5/16 (or screw driver if clamps aren’t stock), 10mm, 12mm sockets and ratchet (s) for each
• 3/8 and 10mm wrench
• Vise grips, or similar
• Hammer
• Steel braided line of a 350z/G35 of your choice
• Wife/wifey material/buddy to help you bleed the system
![]()
Ill give this a 2 on an easy scale of 1-5. It’s a fairly easy process, just take your time and do things right. Also use common sense and know when to stop. My habit is to always over estimate completion times so ill say give yourself about an hour and half for everything including the bleeding.
1. Open the hood (duh). If you need help with this part I would stop here and not attempt this…..
2. Place hammer somewhere on hood so it stays up.
![]()
3. Locate your intake and find the clamps for the throttle body and the intake box and loosen. Stock ones are 10mm, in my case i have aftermarket ones and they're a different size.
![]()
![]()
4. Unplug MAF sensor. If you have a 03-04 2.0 you might have a MAP sensor so don’t be afraid if there isn’t something here.
![]()
5. Starting from the throttle body, pull back on the pipe towards the fender. Once its off, pull the same pipe towards the firewall to remove it from the intake box. Remember to also pull off the breather hose.
![]()
![]()
6. Next, there’s two clips for the upper part of the intake, pull them back and then tilt it up and pull back to remove. My box is missing one of the clips.
![]()
7. Pull up on your filter.
![]()
8. Now 3 10mm bolts hold on the lower portion of the intake box. Remove them and pull back on the box towards the firewall to remove.
![]()
![]()
9. Now the whole intake is removed and there’s plenty of room to work with.
![]()
10. Locate the main line coming off the master cylinder going to the rubber line soon to be replaced. Now find your handy 3/8 wrench and break it loose. If it’s hard to break loose, throw some WD-40 or PBlaster and tighten the nut slightly, then loosen it.
![]()
![]()
11. Next go to your slave cylinder and use your 12mm to loosen the nut at the end. Let the brake fluid drain out here so it just lands on the transmission. Easy to clean up later.
![]()
12. Loosen this little thing, I honestly have clue what it is or what its for. While you’re here, grab your pliers, vise grips, whatever and take off the clip for the rubber clutch line.
![]()
13. By now, most of the fluid from the system should be gone so go ahead and take off the bolt for the slave cylinder. Make sure you have both copper washers, as these are necessary.
![]()
Why am I doing this? After a while when you get to know your car you notice things. I noticed my clutch always had random engagement. BUT this was close enough to the same point so it never really bothered me. More recently, I noticed my foot going to the floor more and more. I checked my brake fluid and saw it was fine; master and slave cylinders are less half a year old, so I moved on to the next wear and tear component, which is the rubber line. Over time, these lines expand more and more when pressure is put through it leading to the symptoms I’m experiencing.
Decided to do a little research on newtib, and came across a thread discussing braided clutch lines for our cars. Found out the 350z/G35 lines fit and then began looking online for a line. After about 15 minutes I found out they were close enough to fit, and thought to myself “why not, wont hurt, ill return it if anything”.
Post where line is discussed, note that the HEL line they used isn't sold anymore. Contacted seller via ebay and no response even to this day.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=217625
Asked my buddy who has a 370 who he suggests for z parts and he suggested z1motorsports. They have the line for $30 and about $10 in shipping to Orlando, FL. They’re located in Georgia so use that as a reference point to try and guess your shipping costs. They also do offer local pickup so if you’re local you can get away with $30 plus taxes.
Link to line:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2206
Tools need:
• Shop towels
• Brake fluid
• Flash light
• 5/16 (or screw driver if clamps aren’t stock), 10mm, 12mm sockets and ratchet (s) for each
• 3/8 and 10mm wrench
• Vise grips, or similar
• Hammer
• Steel braided line of a 350z/G35 of your choice
• Wife/wifey material/buddy to help you bleed the system
Ill give this a 2 on an easy scale of 1-5. It’s a fairly easy process, just take your time and do things right. Also use common sense and know when to stop. My habit is to always over estimate completion times so ill say give yourself about an hour and half for everything including the bleeding.
1. Open the hood (duh). If you need help with this part I would stop here and not attempt this…..
2. Place hammer somewhere on hood so it stays up.
3. Locate your intake and find the clamps for the throttle body and the intake box and loosen. Stock ones are 10mm, in my case i have aftermarket ones and they're a different size.
4. Unplug MAF sensor. If you have a 03-04 2.0 you might have a MAP sensor so don’t be afraid if there isn’t something here.
5. Starting from the throttle body, pull back on the pipe towards the fender. Once its off, pull the same pipe towards the firewall to remove it from the intake box. Remember to also pull off the breather hose.
6. Next, there’s two clips for the upper part of the intake, pull them back and then tilt it up and pull back to remove. My box is missing one of the clips.
7. Pull up on your filter.
8. Now 3 10mm bolts hold on the lower portion of the intake box. Remove them and pull back on the box towards the firewall to remove.
9. Now the whole intake is removed and there’s plenty of room to work with.
10. Locate the main line coming off the master cylinder going to the rubber line soon to be replaced. Now find your handy 3/8 wrench and break it loose. If it’s hard to break loose, throw some WD-40 or PBlaster and tighten the nut slightly, then loosen it.
11. Next go to your slave cylinder and use your 12mm to loosen the nut at the end. Let the brake fluid drain out here so it just lands on the transmission. Easy to clean up later.
12. Loosen this little thing, I honestly have clue what it is or what its for. While you’re here, grab your pliers, vise grips, whatever and take off the clip for the rubber clutch line.
13. By now, most of the fluid from the system should be gone so go ahead and take off the bolt for the slave cylinder. Make sure you have both copper washers, as these are necessary.
↧
↧
New User here!
Hello everyone my name is Prince Phillips, i live in Illinois and im new here on NT. I drive a 07 Tiburon 2.7 SE v6, just here to introduce myself and get the hang of the fourms! hopefully find some people from Chicago, because havent seen any modded tibs out here sadly! I cant show any pictures because i havent made any post yet but i will soon!
↧
FEEDBACK: Delmarosalinda
Excellent buyer, arranged purchase of my GK clear corner headlights and was paid promptly.
↧
Looking for advise on A/C-2006 tibby
I have a 2006 Tiburon SE 6 speed
My car A/C is blowing warm air. Ive been doing research into the problem and the below symptoms are what I have found so far.
1) A/C clutch does not spin
2) Low Pressure is around 100 PSI (from what ive gathered this is because the A/C clutch is not spinning)
3) Refrigerant will not fill with such a high PSI
If the A/C clutch is not spinning because of the low refrigerant, I would have to trip the high pressure sensor and then start filling the A/C while the clutch is spinning? If this is the case, how to I get the sensor off and trip it? I cant seem to find pics for the sensor in my car online.
My car A/C is blowing warm air. Ive been doing research into the problem and the below symptoms are what I have found so far.
1) A/C clutch does not spin
2) Low Pressure is around 100 PSI (from what ive gathered this is because the A/C clutch is not spinning)
3) Refrigerant will not fill with such a high PSI
If the A/C clutch is not spinning because of the low refrigerant, I would have to trip the high pressure sensor and then start filling the A/C while the clutch is spinning? If this is the case, how to I get the sensor off and trip it? I cant seem to find pics for the sensor in my car online.
↧