Really looking for a carbon fiber hood after mines was backed into, preferred OEM but open to some vented hoods. Located in California and willing to pay shipping.
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WTB: Carbon Fiber Hood Wanted
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Pre-Dyno run checklist
Good checklist to go over BEFORE going to a dyno. While it is geared to dyno runs runs for tuning, it's still a good start...
We have created this dyno tuning checklist as a guide for you to follow to ensure your engine and vehicle are in proper condition prior to your tuning session. The most common cause of unsatisfactory tuning results stem from mechanical issues that could have easily been found and corrected prior to the tune. You can go through each of the steps in this Dyno Tuning Checklist to identify and resolve common problem areas that can effect the tuning of your car.
Section 1: Mechanical Engine Health
You need to make sure you are tuning a healthy engine. We suggest you complete a compression test prior to your tuning appointment (and a Cylinder Leakdown Test [CLT] if possible). Typical compression test results should be as follows (at sea level):
· 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
· 8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
· 9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
· 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
Compression Tests should be performed on a warm engine, with the fuel injectors unplugged, and the throttle should be held fully open while testing. These pressure values will be less at higher elevations, and can be lower on engines with more mileage. YOU SHOULD NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. If you have one cylinder that is showing a greater variance than 20psi then you will need to repair that mechanical problem prior to your dyno tuning appointment. The additional cylinder pressure realized after a custom tune will only exploit the existing mechanical problem causing further, and usually more severe engine failure.
A Compression Leakdown Test (CLT) can also be performed on a warm engine. YOU SHOULD NOT have a cylinder leakage of more than 7% in any cylinder. If you do, then you will need to further test to see where the air is leaking from and to; intake valve seat, exhaust valve seat, head gasket, piston rings, etc. Please know that even if either of these test results look good, you can still have an engine that has some mechanical damage and the tuner/calibrator should be able to recognize any negative symptoms and consult with you about the consequences of further tuning your engine.
Check for any engine oil, other lubrication, or fluid leaks. Be sure to use the proper turbo oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly. Any oil/fluid leak will likely only get worse once the engine/drivetrain is warmed up while on the dyno. An engine's oil lubrication system must be properly sealed in order for dyno tuning to safely continue.
Section 2: MAF, Intake, Charge Pipe/Intercooler System, Turbo and Vacuum Line Integrity
Make sure your intake filter and MAF sensor has been properly cleaned and that the o-ring is sealing properly in the MAF housing. Cleaning your intake filter at regular intervals (according to the MFG's instructions) is always a good idea, especially before a dyno tuning session. You don't want a clogged intake filter hampering power production. With the ignition in the OFF position, unplugging the MAF sensor and spraying the sensor with brake parts cleaner can help remove any residual oils that may have collected over time. Please make sure the o-ring is in tact and seats properly when you reinstall the MAF sensor into the MAF housing.
Vacuum, pressure, or smoke check all MAF housing, intake, charge pipe/intercooler, turbo, and vacuum lines. Make sure that your intake, vacuum lines, and intercooler piping are sealed when under vacuum and sealed when pressurized like when running full boost. Pressure/smoke testing the system to as much pressure as the car is going to run is ideal. This is super critical especially if the vehicle is using a MASS AIR FLOW sensor to meter air ingestion by the engine. A vacuum leak after the MAF sensor, but prior to the turbo will make the engine run leaner. A boost leak after the turbo, but before the engine will make the engine run richer. Major leaks can usually be found while dyno tuning because the data will look incorrect, but minor leaks are very difficult to find so please pressure test these parts of your system. Making sure that you have secured all of your vacuum lines zip ties, and that your intercooler piping is secure so they do not blow off at the tuning appointment is helpful and can eliminate anything from blowing off while tuning.
Check the full exhaust system from leaks from the exhaust ports on the head to the tailpipe exit. Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust system bolts/nuts. An exhaust leak prior to the turbo will lose power and make part throttle tuning almost impossible. Any exhaust leak in the exhaust stream prior to the WBO2 sensor can also throw off sensor accuracy.
Check the BOV to make sure it is seating and sealing properly. Make sure the blow off valve properly lubricated, seals tight, and is functioning properly. Stock BOVs may not hold sufficient pressure so please be sure to follow the specific advise for how much pressure the stock BOV holds for each platform.
Test for excessive turbo shaft play. Ensure that the turbo wheels are not spinning. Reach your fingers into the inlet side of the compressor and grasp the shaft. Attempt to move the shaft left and right, up and down. If the shaft moves appreciably in these directions, your turbo has excessive shaft play. You cannot expect a turbo to operate properly if has worn excessively, have the turbo rebuilt or buy a new one.
Section 3: General Pre-Tuning Maintenance Questions
Do you have all fluid levels where they need be? Make sure all fluid levels are up to par; this includes engine oil, anti-freeze, transmission fluid, differential/transfer case fluid, brake fluid, clutch hydraulic fluid, etc. If your engine oil and filter have been run for more than 3,000 miles, please replace the filter and your engine oil. Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your engine has an overheating problem, DO NOT come for the appointment. Because we cannot tune a car that is overheating.
Do you have a sufficient amount of the proper quality fuel in your tank? Make sure that you have the proper fuel octane and enough fuel to complete the tune. The vehicle must also have at least a half tank of gas for the dyno tuning appointment. If you want calibrations for additional fuel qualities, please be sure to properly prepare to safely evacuate the existing fuel and to provide sufficient quantities of the new fuel for the tuning session. If you want a tune for race gas, it may be necessary to you schedule two different tuning sessions because your engine will most likely be heat soaked after the pump gas tune and will need significant time to cool off before a more aggressive race gas tune should take place.
Do you have any Check Engine Lights (CEL), Codes, or Malfunction Indicator Lamps (MIL) on? Do not schedule a tuning appointment if you a check engine light is on due to something that is mechanically wrong with the vehicle. Please have this mechanical problem diagnosed and fixed prior to your dyno tuning appointment.
When was the last time your fuel injectors were cleaned and checked for a system balance? IF YOUR VEHICLE (OR INJECTORS) IS OVER 5 YEARS OLD, we highly suggest you remove your fuel injectors and have them cleaned and calibrated by an injector cleaning facility. Since the tuner/calibrator is only metering the Lambda (Air/Fuel Ratio) from one location the assumption is that all fuel injectors are flowing the same rate. If you have one poorly flowing fuel injector, then it is possible to further damage your engine by completing a dyno tune.
Do you have sufficient electrical grounding? If your vehicle is over 5 years old or is driven in a humid oceanic environment, we suggest you clean your engine grounds and grounding attachment points. A vehicles electrical signals need to be as clean as possible so the ECM has good signals coming in and going out. The engine harness should have no exposed wires. Also, do no twist and tape wires together. Take the time to properly crimp or solder them together!
How old is your fuel filter? Stock fuel filters usually work well, but when you are flowing much more fuel through them, they can clog much faster. Please inspect and replace your fuel filter (if need be), any blockage in fuel flow to the engine will cause pre-mature fuel pump wear and can lead to engine damage if the fuel filter is clog, causing a lean burn condition. You should not have installed aftermarket (higher flowing) fuel pump(s) if you see dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace the fuel tank. You can destroy your new fuel pump if you leave junk in the fuel tank.
We have created this dyno tuning checklist as a guide for you to follow to ensure your engine and vehicle are in proper condition prior to your tuning session. The most common cause of unsatisfactory tuning results stem from mechanical issues that could have easily been found and corrected prior to the tune. You can go through each of the steps in this Dyno Tuning Checklist to identify and resolve common problem areas that can effect the tuning of your car.
Section 1: Mechanical Engine Health
You need to make sure you are tuning a healthy engine. We suggest you complete a compression test prior to your tuning appointment (and a Cylinder Leakdown Test [CLT] if possible). Typical compression test results should be as follows (at sea level):
· 8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
· 8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
· 9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
· 11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
Compression Tests should be performed on a warm engine, with the fuel injectors unplugged, and the throttle should be held fully open while testing. These pressure values will be less at higher elevations, and can be lower on engines with more mileage. YOU SHOULD NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. If you have one cylinder that is showing a greater variance than 20psi then you will need to repair that mechanical problem prior to your dyno tuning appointment. The additional cylinder pressure realized after a custom tune will only exploit the existing mechanical problem causing further, and usually more severe engine failure.
A Compression Leakdown Test (CLT) can also be performed on a warm engine. YOU SHOULD NOT have a cylinder leakage of more than 7% in any cylinder. If you do, then you will need to further test to see where the air is leaking from and to; intake valve seat, exhaust valve seat, head gasket, piston rings, etc. Please know that even if either of these test results look good, you can still have an engine that has some mechanical damage and the tuner/calibrator should be able to recognize any negative symptoms and consult with you about the consequences of further tuning your engine.
Check for any engine oil, other lubrication, or fluid leaks. Be sure to use the proper turbo oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly. Any oil/fluid leak will likely only get worse once the engine/drivetrain is warmed up while on the dyno. An engine's oil lubrication system must be properly sealed in order for dyno tuning to safely continue.
Section 2: MAF, Intake, Charge Pipe/Intercooler System, Turbo and Vacuum Line Integrity
Make sure your intake filter and MAF sensor has been properly cleaned and that the o-ring is sealing properly in the MAF housing. Cleaning your intake filter at regular intervals (according to the MFG's instructions) is always a good idea, especially before a dyno tuning session. You don't want a clogged intake filter hampering power production. With the ignition in the OFF position, unplugging the MAF sensor and spraying the sensor with brake parts cleaner can help remove any residual oils that may have collected over time. Please make sure the o-ring is in tact and seats properly when you reinstall the MAF sensor into the MAF housing.
Vacuum, pressure, or smoke check all MAF housing, intake, charge pipe/intercooler, turbo, and vacuum lines. Make sure that your intake, vacuum lines, and intercooler piping are sealed when under vacuum and sealed when pressurized like when running full boost. Pressure/smoke testing the system to as much pressure as the car is going to run is ideal. This is super critical especially if the vehicle is using a MASS AIR FLOW sensor to meter air ingestion by the engine. A vacuum leak after the MAF sensor, but prior to the turbo will make the engine run leaner. A boost leak after the turbo, but before the engine will make the engine run richer. Major leaks can usually be found while dyno tuning because the data will look incorrect, but minor leaks are very difficult to find so please pressure test these parts of your system. Making sure that you have secured all of your vacuum lines zip ties, and that your intercooler piping is secure so they do not blow off at the tuning appointment is helpful and can eliminate anything from blowing off while tuning.
Check the full exhaust system from leaks from the exhaust ports on the head to the tailpipe exit. Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust system bolts/nuts. An exhaust leak prior to the turbo will lose power and make part throttle tuning almost impossible. Any exhaust leak in the exhaust stream prior to the WBO2 sensor can also throw off sensor accuracy.
Check the BOV to make sure it is seating and sealing properly. Make sure the blow off valve properly lubricated, seals tight, and is functioning properly. Stock BOVs may not hold sufficient pressure so please be sure to follow the specific advise for how much pressure the stock BOV holds for each platform.
Test for excessive turbo shaft play. Ensure that the turbo wheels are not spinning. Reach your fingers into the inlet side of the compressor and grasp the shaft. Attempt to move the shaft left and right, up and down. If the shaft moves appreciably in these directions, your turbo has excessive shaft play. You cannot expect a turbo to operate properly if has worn excessively, have the turbo rebuilt or buy a new one.
Section 3: General Pre-Tuning Maintenance Questions
Do you have all fluid levels where they need be? Make sure all fluid levels are up to par; this includes engine oil, anti-freeze, transmission fluid, differential/transfer case fluid, brake fluid, clutch hydraulic fluid, etc. If your engine oil and filter have been run for more than 3,000 miles, please replace the filter and your engine oil. Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your engine has an overheating problem, DO NOT come for the appointment. Because we cannot tune a car that is overheating.
Do you have a sufficient amount of the proper quality fuel in your tank? Make sure that you have the proper fuel octane and enough fuel to complete the tune. The vehicle must also have at least a half tank of gas for the dyno tuning appointment. If you want calibrations for additional fuel qualities, please be sure to properly prepare to safely evacuate the existing fuel and to provide sufficient quantities of the new fuel for the tuning session. If you want a tune for race gas, it may be necessary to you schedule two different tuning sessions because your engine will most likely be heat soaked after the pump gas tune and will need significant time to cool off before a more aggressive race gas tune should take place.
Do you have any Check Engine Lights (CEL), Codes, or Malfunction Indicator Lamps (MIL) on? Do not schedule a tuning appointment if you a check engine light is on due to something that is mechanically wrong with the vehicle. Please have this mechanical problem diagnosed and fixed prior to your dyno tuning appointment.
When was the last time your fuel injectors were cleaned and checked for a system balance? IF YOUR VEHICLE (OR INJECTORS) IS OVER 5 YEARS OLD, we highly suggest you remove your fuel injectors and have them cleaned and calibrated by an injector cleaning facility. Since the tuner/calibrator is only metering the Lambda (Air/Fuel Ratio) from one location the assumption is that all fuel injectors are flowing the same rate. If you have one poorly flowing fuel injector, then it is possible to further damage your engine by completing a dyno tune.
Do you have sufficient electrical grounding? If your vehicle is over 5 years old or is driven in a humid oceanic environment, we suggest you clean your engine grounds and grounding attachment points. A vehicles electrical signals need to be as clean as possible so the ECM has good signals coming in and going out. The engine harness should have no exposed wires. Also, do no twist and tape wires together. Take the time to properly crimp or solder them together!
How old is your fuel filter? Stock fuel filters usually work well, but when you are flowing much more fuel through them, they can clog much faster. Please inspect and replace your fuel filter (if need be), any blockage in fuel flow to the engine will cause pre-mature fuel pump wear and can lead to engine damage if the fuel filter is clog, causing a lean burn condition. You should not have installed aftermarket (higher flowing) fuel pump(s) if you see dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace the fuel tank. You can destroy your new fuel pump if you leave junk in the fuel tank.
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Delta Combustion Chamber Volume
Hey guys
I have been doing some research lately in order to prepare for a serious NA engine upgrade. I have been trying to find some 13:0:1 pistons (or 12) and a suitable workshop.
I have searched Wossner and they have a few model numbers of 12:1s available however when I contacted them they said none has yet to be produced and would like a sample piston to confirm if it's plausible. In addition they want to know the engine's combustion chamber volume of the cylinder head, head gasket thickness, deck height, bore, and stroke. I've been doing some research and for the life of me I cannot find out the combustion chamber volume and its deck height. In addition I'm not keen on shipping an oem piston to them as the purchasing a piston + its shipping cost + producing the pistons + shipping the kit back will kill me.
I vaguely remember someone mentioning Wiseco has discontinued producing their 2.7l Delta pistons but I'm going to contact them to get a confirmation on that.
If you guys can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated. I have found this link here with some helpful information but unsure if I can find what I need with it: http://www.paul128.co.kr/paul/engine/hdgas-spec4.html
I have been doing some research lately in order to prepare for a serious NA engine upgrade. I have been trying to find some 13:0:1 pistons (or 12) and a suitable workshop.
I have searched Wossner and they have a few model numbers of 12:1s available however when I contacted them they said none has yet to be produced and would like a sample piston to confirm if it's plausible. In addition they want to know the engine's combustion chamber volume of the cylinder head, head gasket thickness, deck height, bore, and stroke. I've been doing some research and for the life of me I cannot find out the combustion chamber volume and its deck height. In addition I'm not keen on shipping an oem piston to them as the purchasing a piston + its shipping cost + producing the pistons + shipping the kit back will kill me.
I vaguely remember someone mentioning Wiseco has discontinued producing their 2.7l Delta pistons but I'm going to contact them to get a confirmation on that.
If you guys can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated. I have found this link here with some helpful information but unsure if I can find what I need with it: http://www.paul128.co.kr/paul/engine/hdgas-spec4.html
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WTB: Dual fuel rail kit for i4
Does anybody have one? Before I go blow my money haha
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last min sniper install issues
Hey guys, I just about done with my sniper install and ran into 2 issues. First the upper half of the CAI. No matter how I try to position it, it wont clear the brake booster hose. Does this need to be bent downward, or is there a way to align the intake? Second, Im running a 70mm TB and i already know its going to have clearance issues with the hood. From what I can see it is touching right below the driver side washer nozzle. If I cut that section out to clear the TB and run the hose inside the hood frame, will it cause and binding issues with the TB?
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New member
Hi everyone. I have just joined here. I'm from Poland (europe) and I have been using Tib V6 for about six months.
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WTB: High wing/ rear spoiler.
I am looking for high wing/ rear spoiler to buy.
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FS: 290cc Injectors
290cc blue Injectors.
$60+shipping.
$60+shipping.
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new member
Hi everyone just got my new tiburon. It is a 2008 dark blue GS im excited for this build!
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Ideas for my build
What would you guys recommend as far as building up my horsepower? I am very interested in turbo however I need a good deal!
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FS: 2004 clear corner headlights / 2004 Tails
Selling some 2004 headlights / tails off my now totaled tib (had swapped them out for F/L so they've been hiding in my garage a couple years).
WIRING HARNESSES INCLUDED WITH TAILS
All items sold as is
Clear Corner Headlights: $150 shipped obo
Tails: $150 shipped obo
These will fit 2003-2004 Tiburons without modifications, 05-06 need a little love to fit properly.
Just trying to get rid of old parts since I'm getting an '08 so don't be afraid to lowball me and see if I accept! haha. :retard,dance:
pics:
The mates are in same condition as these, they're just outside getting ready to be polished.
More parts coming soon!
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WIRING HARNESSES INCLUDED WITH TAILS
All items sold as is
Clear Corner Headlights: $150 shipped obo
Tails: $150 shipped obo
These will fit 2003-2004 Tiburons without modifications, 05-06 need a little love to fit properly.
Just trying to get rid of old parts since I'm getting an '08 so don't be afraid to lowball me and see if I accept! haha. :retard,dance:
pics:
The mates are in same condition as these, they're just outside getting ready to be polished.
More parts coming soon!
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Turbo Idle Issues(video) +more
So this is happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBj9yNUVVD0 There is another thread describing my issues here but I thought I would make a fresh thread dedicated to this problem alone because the other thread's original purpose was totally irrelevant to this issue. Hopefully we can get this solved so that others here can look at this thread for reference. Anyways, Dont mind the check engine light. I accidentally left the maf unplugged upon start up and i havent cleared the code yet. Today i replaced my injectors and spark plugs. I messed with the screw on the throttle body becuase i had no idea what it did. I later learned it was an idle screw? maybe i need to turn it to adjust idle? I dont think thats my only issue. The video shows the car idle at first (about 1000 which is high to begin with) Then i apply slight throttle, immediatly let off and the rpms hang at 1500 for about 10 seconds or so then it goes back to 1000. Once it returns to 1000 there is a very lean reading on the wideband as you can see, almost like a hesitation. Ive been having issues with idle, hesitations, sluggish acceleration, random lean and rich readings on wideband during cruising, you name it. Plugs gapped to .035. To my knowledge, there are a handful of things to cause the symptoms im having.
Vacuum leak
Crank Position Sensor
Maf (highly doubt its the maf. Idle afr is good and WOT is good now that i put stock injectors in)
Spark Plugs(just replaced them today so probably not)
Throttle Position Sensor
Idle Air Control
02 sensors (highly doubt, theres no check engine light for the 02 sensor that has ever come on)
I really need to get this problem fixed so that I can enjoy my turbo setup how its supposed to be enjoyed! Thank you!
Vacuum leak
Crank Position Sensor
Maf (highly doubt its the maf. Idle afr is good and WOT is good now that i put stock injectors in)
Spark Plugs(just replaced them today so probably not)
Throttle Position Sensor
Idle Air Control
02 sensors (highly doubt, theres no check engine light for the 02 sensor that has ever come on)
I really need to get this problem fixed so that I can enjoy my turbo setup how its supposed to be enjoyed! Thank you!
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transmission leak
Hello all,
So I went to get an only change and got a chance to see the undercarriage of my 06 tib
Everything looks good expect for some "minor" transmission leakage. I took some pictures of the component that's leaking but I am not sure what it does or why it's even leaking (noob)
Could you please identify the component and determine if it can turn out to be a serious problem down the road? I would take any advices and take action to prevent any problems in the future.
Please see pics below
Thank you
So I went to get an only change and got a chance to see the undercarriage of my 06 tib
Everything looks good expect for some "minor" transmission leakage. I took some pictures of the component that's leaking but I am not sure what it does or why it's even leaking (noob)
Could you please identify the component and determine if it can turn out to be a serious problem down the road? I would take any advices and take action to prevent any problems in the future.
Please see pics below
Thank you
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'06 Renovatio Alfa from Vietnam with love
Hi yall I'm from VN and this is my '06 Renovatio Alfa.
http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1801
A picture's worth 1000 words so I'll let the pics do the talking :D
First tablet sketch before hitting the 'shop
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Tail 'n taillights
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Side vents
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Front and headlights
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In the 'shop
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On the street
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http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1801
A picture's worth 1000 words so I'll let the pics do the talking :D
First tablet sketch before hitting the 'shop
Tail 'n taillights
Side vents
Front and headlights
In the 'shop
On the street
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FS: 2007 Fascia (AC and Radio Dash)
I am selling a 2007 Fascia, this Fascia i will also include wires if you would like to convert or <2007/2008 Fascia from the previous model fascia.
75$
:carwash:
75$
:carwash:
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WTB: Exhaust Cut out WANTED
Looking for an electronic exhaust cut out.
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FS: High Rise Spoiler
I have a silver high rise if anyone wants it. It's in good condition but not perfect. The 3rd brake light works as it should. $80 plus shipping.
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How does Fedex work?
Sup Tibbs! I want to buy some aftermarket stuff for my tib and they wont mail it to my P.O.Box. I live on an island and we have a Fedex here. How do I buy something online and have it mailed to Fedex and I go pick it up from them? I would call them myself but they are close today because its Sunday. Any ideas how this works.....I plan on getting aftermarket 6-1/2 mid speakers, 6x9 mid speakers, car dvd player, hood, bodykit, head/taillights...etc
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2003 4cyl auto tibby makes noise after giving gas
Hello my 2003 Tiburon makes noise after letting off the gas pedal at low speeds. the noise kind of sounds like a big knock and it sounds like its coming from the engine. it doesn't do it all the time but it is becoming more frequent. also car will shake while idling until I put in neutral. my car only has headers and cold air intake.
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[GK3 ph1] The JO-JO-93's Black and White v6
Hi everyone !
I'm Jonathan and I'm French.
My english is not very good but I try my best for you !
I would travel to the U.S. soon.
I'm passionate to Tuscani since 5 years mostly with your great preparartions !
I have accumulated a lot of car parts. ( 2 supercharged, ... )
On the second picture, mine is on the left.
Sorry again for my disastrous english !
See you soon !
I'm Jonathan and I'm French.
My english is not very good but I try my best for you !
I would travel to the U.S. soon.
I'm passionate to Tuscani since 5 years mostly with your great preparartions !
I have accumulated a lot of car parts. ( 2 supercharged, ... )
On the second picture, mine is on the left.
Sorry again for my disastrous english !
See you soon !
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