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My Custom Engine Bay.

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A lot of you probably have come across my Exterior Project, which I have effectively completed (well not entirely) and not yet unveiled to the internet- sorry guys; there's a good reason for it.

In Post #231 I wrote:

"After this exterior project, I do have plans for a shaved and partially-tucked engine bay anyway, so what I thought I'd do is lay the adhesive over the area, to act as a filler, and also smooth out other details. For example, I ground off some welded-in nuts which were intended to hold the washer reservoir and ABS module..."

Well I have been working on just that (and more haha).


Let's get started.

First, I am extremely grateful that I have been blessed with the opportunity to do this. I have a friend who's in the process of opening a car shop and has let me use the space to work on my car in my spare time. That said I have been working on the project on my own and expect it to stay that way. That is, I don't think my project will be receiving any additional or professional help from others.

Before this project, in October 2018 something went horribly wrong with my steering. Thankfully it was while I was in a parking lot. In short: it would steer to the left way too much, and to the right not enough (and even that wouldn't be consistent). I assumed the steering rack failed, which I expected to fail next on my car, and as such I had already bought a replacement steering rack ahead of time. So part of this project will involve investigating what happened and overgo its repair. I figure at this point I could as well do a full power steering delete, and it'd be best to replace the timing belt as well. over the 2018-19 winter I had the poor thing parked outside. Here we are at the end of March 2019 when I had it towed over:



Absolutely disgusting. The worst of it is not seen in the photo. This is what happens after several years of neglect + shortening CAI to prevent hydrolock (due to not having fender liners) + throwing and zip-tying things in the engine bay quick to drive the car again upon completion of previous exterior project lol (I can explain all of that). There is many years' worth of road salt, dirt, grease & oil all over the place.

Poor headers :( I will put in the effort to restore these.


Also, if you didn't catch it: one stud is missing - which was actually a bolt since I stripped the threads on the headers install so instead installed a longer bolt.

More on missing bolts later...

I don't like to start the thread off like this as a neglegence of care is not how I treat things; it's not who I am. So let's fix that.





More grossness here:


That is a coating of dirt stuck in place. Here it is cleaned up with some brake cleaner:


This side, while also dirty, is black because when I was 20 years old I thought it was a neat idea to paint whatever of the engine bay that I could until eventually I'd have it all black. lol, I was a kid...:


As for the steering rack. Well, it could have an internal issue (likely does), but it seems my issue was really mostly a simple matter of two out of four bolts having gone missing:


Also notice how disgusting this area is lol. More on that later when we get to the subframe work haha.
Now you might wonder: how do two bolts go missing? I have a guess as to why: solid motor mounts. I have them installed front & rear. Never in the ownership of my car had the steering rack been removed, or had its bolts loosened for any reason (heck, even the subframe has never been fully removed), so I cannot think of any other reason than extra and particular vibration frequencies causing them to loosen. The steering rack & motor mounts are all attached to the subframe after all. Anyway, between the steering rack having sported over a third of a million kilometers of use, having ripped boots, and having been in a collision it is worthwhile to simply replace the rack. Looking forward to doing that.


With the engine & steering investigation out of the way it's time to get onto the fun stuff 8)

Time to cut some profiles with cardboard:




Part of my project here involves closing up the engine bay (including the underside- more on that later) so that dirt can virtually no longer get into it ever again, ensuring it remains always clean. I have a few things in mind to help the aerodynamics as well :P That is, I am going to angle the radiator and vent the hood.

O2 sensor

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Hi I have a 03 gt 2.7 6 speed manual I need the wireing diagram for the o2 sensor I no ive seen it on here before but having a hell of a time finding now that I need it

2008 Automatic V6 GT going haywire, HELP!!

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I'm having a lot of problems with my 08 2.7L GT Tibby. Mainly electrical but some issues are mechanical. First off, the non-functioning components are:
• Radio
• Driver door lock switch
• Center fascia temperature screen and button(Clock screen and buttons still work)
• Climate control screen and buttons (Only response comes from rear defog button)
• Sunroof buttons (No response)
• Battery
• Side mirror control (No response)
• Some relay circuits test bad
• Headlight switch (Only when trying to turn off lights, functions properly otherwise)
• A/C clutch
• Power steering
• Airbag fault(indicator light on)

A few specifics:
• Battery reads around 12.6V and around 10.8 when I put a charge to it. Tool used: bit .ly/2z4VAjc
• Starting issue: Car seems to crawl to life even when battery is fully charged. (I'll post a video if needed)
• Very rough start when cold(Approx 1500RPM at first, dropping to around 1000RPM, and then dropping to around 800RPM while idling)
• Interior and exterior lights dim when window/door lock switches are used (Mainly interior)
My next issue involves relay circuits I've identified as faulty. Tool used: bit. ly/2OWcU4H
These are my results for each pin separately:
•H/LP(low): 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Going to Earth
• RAD: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• COND1: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• F/PUMP: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• HORN: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Getting voltage 85 - Both
• WIPER: 30 - Going to Earth 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• F/FOG: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• H/LP(high) 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• A/CON: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both
• START: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Both 85 - Going to Earth
• MAIN: 30 - Getting voltage 86 - Getting voltage 85 - Both
• COND2: 30 - Both 86 - Going to Earth 85 - Both (When activated with tester, 30 switches to "Going to Earth")

My scanner cannot read hyundai SRS codes, but I've listed the OBD2 and ABS codes:
Engine:

• P0442 (Small EVAP leak)

ABS:
• C1209 - Wheel Speed Sensor Rear-RH Open/Short
• C2402 - Motor Electrical
• C2112 - Valve Relay Failure (Valve Relay or Fuse Failure)

If anyone can provide any helpful information, suggestions, or tips, I'd greatly appreciate it. If you're going to comment something along the lines of "Throw it away" or "get a new car" please don't waste my time or yours.

BIG thanks to anyone that can help.
LMK if I need to provide any additional info.

[Project] Side fender T badge

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Hello,

I'm starting a project to add tuscani badge on front fender over the turn signal. The shape of the fender will perfectly fit with a badge here.

It will be made of metal, press for 3d like original and coated. See the sample pretty much close to final state. The height is about 3".


I'm wanting to make this as a very limited edition, i searching for people up for this project. What do you think about that ?

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Wheel Bearing or Transmission Issue ???!!!

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Hey everyone,

Car: 2003 V6 6MT

I started hearing a screeching noise few days ago from the front driver side wheel. first guess was brake pads.
upon inspection the pads were thin enough that I was confident with my diagnoses.

So, got a new pads yesterday and replaced all front pads, but no luck, the noise is still there.
The noise is like a grinding/screeching noise at low speeds, and then it goes away at 25+ MPH
But it has been getting progressively worse over the last 2-3 days.

The WEIRD Symptoms:
Yesterday when I placed the car on jack-stands to replace the pads, car was in neutral and I have noticed that the passenger side wheel is spinning freely, but the driver side wheel is not.
I can rotate the wheel about 10 degrees in each direction only, it feels like the car is in gear, but it is not.

I am not noticing any transmission issues, and the car is making that noise at low speeds regardless of what gear I'm in, neutral or not, clutch or not.

Luckily I do have a brand new wheel hub with a new bearing setting in my garage, bought it last year but never needed it (another long story).
So I might replace it today if I found some free time.

But what do you guys think might be the problem, could it be internal to the transmission? the internal diff?

CMP/CKP Sensors circuit

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Hello,

I installed piggy back called as "DET3" (Digital ECU Tuner 3) to 2.7 from 2004. I have problem with Launch Control, activation input is on analog #2 as switch ON/OFF, activation RPM is on 3400 and cut off 3600 without any ignition retart.

Driving with switch OFF - no problems, no check engine and no diagnostic trouble codes, when switch is ON and I use LQ (I like to shoot at traffic lights) I have problems with: P0340, P0335, P1372 (ignore P0501) and sometimes car is going on emergency mode (max 3k rpm) on launch control check engine bliks almost every time and If I press too hard on gas pedal check engine show up and doesn't disappear and then emergency mode.

I use scheme as file attached, wrong wiring? Wrong setup?
Need help with this, I set up new connection with duraseals and still problems.

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Newbi from Indiana

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Hello All,

New member here. Didn't know about these forums until I was working on my daughters 2005 Tiburon GT. Great car that she will not get rid of (and I don't blame her). She is in college and the interior door handle stopped working. I bought a new interior handle but when I took it apart it is a broken cable. I am struggling with getting to the cable on the door latch side. Any suggestions?

Thank you in advance for any tips.

Greg

New tiburon

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Hey everyone,

Today I bought my first Hyundai, it's a 2003 tiburon se 5 speed manual 2.0 DOHC 16v.

So the lady mentioned sticking sounds doesnt happen when it first starts but gets going I already know about the filter I'm going to try that tommorow.

My question is the power in this car is very limited. I've driven one before that was much more responsive. The only power I really get is in 2nd gear. Is there some basic things to check ? I want to make sure I check all that I can before I start changing anything around. It is stock engine and has new clutch. I know basic maintenance, so I'm thinking start with oil change and OEM filter, check air filter, then I'm lost ahah.

It feels like the engine is not breathing if that makes sense? I give it gass and it lags revs high barley moves (like 1 to 100 km takes a good couple minutes.)

I'll attach some photos !

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First post and brake calipers for sale

Heater gets cold when idling

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08 Tib i4 2.0 Auto

Last winter, I'd notice my heater getting pretty cold while at an idle and always assumed it was because it was a small car with a small engine in -30 Celsius weather (-22 F)

Was I wrong to assume this? Cause I want to prepare a bit more for this winter before it comes, and I now realise it could be an issue with the heater core or coolant.

Would it be wise to flush my heater core or do any other work related to coolant?

Thanks!

2003 Hyundai tiburon v6 Manual

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Hi All. Greetings. I have recently purchased a 03 tiburon V6. This morning I had difficulty in acceleration. The tibby was losing power after 3000rpm on all gears. Any idea what could be the problem. Please help

03 GT wont restart after being driven.

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Im having trouble trying to figure out whats wrong with my ride. 03 GT. It has long crank times for first start up. Once its running it seems to run just fine with no missing. Drive it up to operating temp and then you can shut it off and it will no restart. Right when u turn the key it will crack off once and then just crank.

New parts installed on car: Plugs, wires, fuel pump (pump only not the entire hat), upstream oxygen sensors (I have codes p0057,p1166, and p0174 still popping on), all new timing components,

I just replaced the motor which is why it got most of the new parts just so it would be trouble free for a good while,

I can't find any vac leaks or anything out of place.
The oxygen sensors were not OEM which i have read our cars do not like, but i can't see that causing the no start after driving??

When i first put it back together it didn't have the initial long crank time and would fire right up. Since the initial first start up I have replaced the O2 sensors as those lights appeared after i got the car running.

The only aftermarket parts on the vehicle is the exhaust system. Long tube obx headers and borla exhaust from headers back and no CATS.

I'm decently mechanically inclined and this one is giving me fits.
Pretty please help! haha

Fuse keeps blowing! Help!!!

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I have a 2008 GS and my “room lp” fuse keeps blowing. I tried replacing the fuse and everything works fine again.....UNTIL I turn my headlights on. Then everything that the room lp fuse controls shuts down and fuse is blown. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you

What Do Other People in My Situation Do?

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Gaining insights from a relative handful of anonymous product reviews requires patience and skill at reading between the lines. Anonymous reviews of replacement auto parts are even sketchier. There are just too many parts and too many vehicle models to ever hope to get a meaningful number of useful reviews for any one part. RockAuto may have ten alternators with a choice of three amperage outputs that fit just one truck. Reviews of broad part types (alternators, thermostats...) and brands (ACDelco, Stant...) without any specific make, year, model, engine connections are likely to be nothing but vague opinions and biases.

RockAuto's heart icons () turn the extreme specificity of replacement auto parts into an advantage! A heart icon next to a part means it was ordered most frequently and returned least frequently for a specific vehicle. This is actual data from ALL customers facing similar repairs on the same vehicle. That is what makes heart icons great. They are based on data that automatically reflects the myriad things ALL customers purchasing that part for that vehicle have taken into account.

RPM gauge not reading right

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If this is in the wrong spot sorry, I searched already and didn’t find anything, but I switched to the FL2 gauge cluster in my 05, everything works perfect except for the RPM GAUGE. It is not accurate. At idle it’s reading just over 1,000 rpm’s, at 70mph it’s reading 1500 rom’s More than what it is. I have a scan tool that tells me the rpm data from the ecu, and that’s how I know the difference. So something isn’t translating right? Is there a way to calibrate it at all?

AC controls flicker

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04 - GT - V6 - 6 speed

My manual a/c controls flicker at higher speeds. I thought that it was the blower speed switched, so I switched it, but I still get flickers (which shuts off the compressor, etc )

What is the cause and the cure for this?

Thx

R

hot a/a

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yes 2008 tiburon v6; wifes car so i gta get it fixed! a/c blows hot air. full of r134 clutch is cycling on n off checked fuses! i am lost as what to check next! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

a/c blows hot

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2008 gtv6 her a/c blows hot air i have checked all that i know to check;;;;;;; fans turning fuse good full of 134! clutch cycles and rpm changes when turning a/c on n off HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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